Easterly Chunks

Finally the rain has stopped. How about that torrential down pour on dark last night – gave the streets a good hosing down. That new east swell kicked in late as well – with plenty of grunt. I was out there when it hit, and oh boy, some chunky fun ones…

Bondi has fun 2-3 footers this morning, ‘cause its neglecting the energy source, but exposed beaches have a whopping 6 foot. It’s was super clean earlier, tending northerly today…go surf somewhere that can hold it…somewhere would be totally smoking today. Wish I had time for a drive…

When I was a kid, Murray Jacob was one of the best surfers in our hood. He’s always got way to much energy…like he’s wired on caffeine. Finally he’s putting that hypo activeness to good use and paddling a Sumatran dugout canoe from Perth to Rotto. Yep, Great Whites and all – a long 20 km paddle…Muz is doing this to raise money for SurfAid – be great if you could pledge some support…if you haven’t been to the Mentawais, you will one day…and you’ll see how important SurfAid is in the area.

Seeya, uge

Lee, out bodysurfing every day

A wonky set out the back from a new swell

A fluffy shoulder set

Backpackers will sleep thru anything


Morning mist as someone takes off

2 thoughts on “Easterly Chunks

  1. I went around the coast walk this morning. The best sets seemed to be just north of Tamarama. They were having a lot of fun in some huge waves. Your photos capture it well.

    ….and that backpacker was still asleep in that car around noon! Must have had a big night….

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