I read this great New York Times article that studied the actual physical demands of surfing…interestingly, only 8% of our total time spent out in the water is actually riding waves. 54% paddling and the rest just bobbing up and down like a tea bag.
Well… looking at the conditions today, I’d dispute that study and say you’d spend around 0.2% of your total time riding waves, as its TINY. 95% would be spent sitting out the back and the rest paddling around in circles chasing the phantom dribbles that don’t seem to arrive.
It’s a great beach day nonetheless – for now. Cloud cover will increase and the forecast is for a late shower. Kinda cold with a winter maximum of 19 degrees. I was most impressed when I got down to Tamarama this morning around 5:50am…the sun wasn’t up, it was around 9 degrees and a girl paddled out in a white bikini and surfed for 1 hour. Any tougher and you’d rust lady…
Windy tomorrow, calmer and good waves on Sunday.
Wish ya Dad Happy Father’s day.