Bondi 7:00am, Perth Standlick, wave of the morning...yes, Bondi...


Every morning is so different down the beach. That’s what keeps me getting up before dawn to document it all. I never get bored of it, even after 14 years of starting my day this way.

This morning was kinda special where 2 freaky, rare, once is a long time things went down…

a) Sydney was coated in thick fog. You could barely see the surf.
b) Barrels on tap. The right tide, bank and winds lined up perfectly around 7:30am and turned on for an hour. Oh boy we had fun.

I’d like more days like today. Think the swell is dropping out now… I also hear Julian Wilson just paddled out at Bondi. We’re getting all the big names lately.

This Saturday I will be speaking at the Vivid Festival in Sydney, part of the Digital Playground talks. More info

Seeya :: uge

Surfing into the fog, Bondi 7:30am

The round thing, Bondi 6:50am

Perth Standlick, stoked being back home

Wylie Moyes, grinding backhand on a morning nugget

Lots of fog this morning

Wylie taming a slab

Zira, pretty happy about paddling out this morning

Blake Thornton and photo bomb from Billy

Blake Thornton, powered up


3 thoughts on “C R A N K

  1. If you just looked at eh tight wave shots and showed them to someone i bet they wouldn’t believe that it was Bondi!

    Rare day for sure!

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