Every morning is so different down the beach. That’s what keeps me getting up before dawn to document it all. I never get bored of it, even after 14 years of starting my day this way.
This morning was kinda special where 2 freaky, rare, once is a long time things went down…
a) Sydney was coated in thick fog. You could barely see the surf.
b) Barrels on tap. The right tide, bank and winds lined up perfectly around 7:30am and turned on for an hour. Oh boy we had fun.
I’d like more days like today. Think the swell is dropping out now… I also hear Julian Wilson just paddled out at Bondi. We’re getting all the big names lately.
This Saturday I will be speaking at the Vivid Festival in Sydney, part of the Digital Playground talks. More info
Seeya :: uge