It’s wild out there, chaos. Boards flying in all directions, rights on lefts, lefts on rights, 5 per wave. Wear your Stackhat and dodge the torpedos – it’s 2 foot and packed!
Its incredible how much the surf dropped out overnight, slipping three gears and idling at sunrise. Clean morning, glorious conditions brought out the biggest crowds of the year.
23 in the brine, 23 out on land.
There is nothing significant on the swell radar, maybe a minor bump on Friday.
Enjoy these beautiful Autumn days; they’re so damn comfortable.
Avagoodone, :: Yooj