Aloha, I just arrived in Hawaii…wow. The north shore to be exact.
Hawaii has eluded me for years – been meaning to come for a decade…I just kept on getting distracted by all the other options now available to surfers these days (we’re spoilt). It’s great to walk around here, feel like I know the place through all the photos I’ve seen. The local crew all look my brothers and sisters – one guy calling me Kalani Robb in the Foodland carpark?
The trades are blowing and there is swell around. The locals call it a ‘small to medium’ swell – erm triple head? What tha? I think they’re having a lend…Waimea Bay is breaking, bit fat, but wow what a take off…and Pipeline had some grinders in real close, looked deadly as the peaked shifted up and down the beach. Might not start off there…as only 1 guy out and he was copping it – ambulance in the carpark ready to go.
I am embarrassed with my redundant Sydney quiver and have to go find a board bigger than 7 foot ending in a pintail. Most crew are carrying around 7’6”+ boards around the place!
The surf looks 3 foot and a onshore mess back home. Sorry. Don’t know what else to say…
How’s this turtle that rolled up 20 metres away from me whilst I was writing the report…thought he was coming into the house!
Post up your north shore stories, tips ramble here.