'big' set out the back. The locals calling it small.

H A W A i i

Aloha, I just arrived in Hawaii…wow. The north shore to be exact.

Hawaii has eluded me for years – been meaning to come for a decade…I just kept on getting distracted by all the other options now available to surfers these days (we’re spoilt). It’s great to walk around here, feel like I know the place through all the photos I’ve seen. The local crew all look my brothers and sisters – one guy calling me Kalani Robb in the Foodland carpark?

The trades are blowing and there is swell around. The locals call it a ‘small to medium’ swell – erm triple head? What tha? I think they’re having a lend…Waimea Bay is breaking, bit fat, but wow what a take off…and Pipeline had some grinders in real close, looked deadly as the peaked shifted up and down the beach. Might not start off there…as only 1 guy out and he was copping it – ambulance in the carpark ready to go.

I am embarrassed with my redundant Sydney quiver and have to go find a board bigger than 7 foot ending in a pintail. Most crew are carrying around 7’6”+ boards around the place!

The surf looks 3 foot and a onshore mess back home. Sorry. Don’t know what else to say…

How’s this turtle that rolled up 20 metres away from me whilst I was writing the report…thought he was coming into the house!

Mahalo, Uge

Post up your north shore stories, tips ramble here.

They call this Pipe scraps. Looks ok to me

This fella was about to come into the house!

This really was a smaller one...5 takers...(std)

The right equipment

10 thoughts on “H A W A i i

  1. told ya to take a bigger board.

    lota water moving around so you need the lenght.

    my north shore story is sitting out sunset ( on my 7’2″) with the girls on the shoulder it was around 6-8 foot them a monster set came in from the west everybody paddled to the point I naturally paddled towards the feathering 12foot bomb in front of me the thing heaved up and broke about 6 foot from me tied to bale but got smashed came up gasping for air, lesson follow the locals and watch the rogue west sets and don’t try to talk to the girls out there they just growl at you.

    you could could be a mark foo looka like hahahaha

  2. If you have time and want to go over to Kauai Uge, I know a killer pad to stay in – up in Priceville, lavish and there are epic setups everywhere. aloha.

  3. Just finished reading ‘Walking on Water’ by Andy Martin. A time capsule of a read about the Triple Crown event on the North Shore during the winter of 1989! Fascinating with the benefit of hindsight. Check it out.

  4. was surfing haleiwa a while ago with a couple of mates and some local crew just chatting when the surface of the water broke next to me. started to roll the board to stop the massive noah from smashing into me. after an eternity rolled the board back over and got on, to a whole crew cracking up at me and a turtle with the biggest smile on his face just staring at me. knew that bugger of a turtle was familiar.

  5. I was there two weeks ago. Big range of random weather and surf from brill to atrocious.
    @Hendo – agreed. Kauai (Hanalei Bay/Princeville) was quite special. Had best surf at Tunnels.
    Thought North Shore was quite rustic and not quite the “mecca” I was expecting. Did have one good day at Sunset. My quiver was also too small!-)
    @Uge – save an arvo for SUPing Waikiki, great despite the hotel dominated coastline. Enjoy!

  6. If Waikiki is too built up, try SUP at Old Man’s… a great break in front of the landmark Elk’s Lodge at Diamond Head. Also try a body bash at Makapuu on the east side of the island (seeing as you are short a big gun). Snow cone at Matsumoto’s at Haleiwa after your next session at The Pipe.

  7. You can’t go to Haleiwa without stopping at the shrimp shack, on the right as you drive through town. And if you are up for some shark diving — in a cage, I mean — let me know and I’ll get my mate Captain Joe to take you out; he leaves from the port at Haleiwa, and he’ll be pleased to have a VIP from Australia on board. Take your underwater camera!

  8. Thanks everyone for the tips. ate at Haleiwa Joe’s last night – classic old skool joint. Loved it. Bit too windy here today – 30 knots from sunrise…waiting for it to settle.

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *