You can see it in the clouds that something’s coming… the calm before the storm…
All quiet down the beach this morning. Waves were small, 1 foot with a freak 2 footer every 20 minutes worth riding. Plenty of sunshine – soak it up as tomorrow looks wet and hell windy. The swell will pick up to 3 foot this afternoon with the approaching stormy conditions (but the winds will swing Southerly).
This new approaching swell looks quite big. Wax up the bigger boards.