Swimming at Pipe is one of my favourite things to do here. Even if you don’t surf or shoot, I recommend buying a pair of fins (Vipers or Da Fins) and swimming out into the lineup. It’s an amazing experience. You will see waves and surfing that will blow your mind. Banzai Pipeline from the water is so much more dramatic than just standing on the beach. The swells roll in from the west north west, hitting a ledge then throwing incredibly wide – hopefully over your head.
Last night Pipe was smoking. The people that know were calling it the best in 5 years. It was 8 foot with 10 foot sets. 2nd reef had a few wash thru’s that kept you on your toes. It was glassy and the competition finally finished at 4pm– allowing 70 crew to paddle out with 8 photogs sitting in the channel (no one opted to shoot fisheye – bit dodgey).
Oh, by the way…only swim out if you are a decent swimmer. The water movements are intense and you may get swept away. Enjoy the photos…those barrels looked so much bigger when I was out there!
Adios :: uge
P.S. The Volcom Pipe Pro continues today…check it live.