Does size count? Is bigger better? Would you rather surf closing out 6-8 foot or clean, 4 foot with multiple opportunities to stab a few holes in the open face.
Big swells don’t seem to work well around here (in my opinion). We don’t have reefs that can hold a decent chunk, and our sand banks only work well in head high surf.
This morning everybody was excited about some chunky swell. Carparks full, drones up, lenses all hunting that big set. But did I see anyone get a decent ride? Not really. Just the thrills of a steep takeoff which would feel amazing after our recent plague of flatness.
Be careful out there. Terrible news just came in, 30 mins ago an Avalon surfer tragically drowned. Don’t take it for granted.
:: uge
