The decent run of swell continues, and Bondi was looking the goods at sunrise—clean lines, waist to head high, with the odd freak set throwing a little more grunt.
But while the waves were playing nice, the crowd? Not so much.
It was absolute carnage out there this morning. A weird mix of beginners going over the falls on hollow sections, and intermediates ducking for cover, hoping not to cop a stray board to the ribs. My mate Josh Rich wasn’t so lucky—he reckons he’s broke his arm after someone’s loose stick came flying at him.
It felt less like surfing and more like a game of aquatic dodgeball. Imagine driving down Campbell Parade and someone starts lobbing longboards into traffic at random. That’s the vibe. Dangerous!
I’ve worn it before too—a few years back someone launched a giant mal at my face mid-wave. Ended up putting my front tooth through my bottom lip. Good times.
So yeah—beautiful waves, but sketchy scenes. Might wait for the onshore to kick in… thins the herd a little.
Stay safe out there, and if someone’s on a wave, refrain from paddling.
Grazie! :: uge
