Mal riders in the corner


You know the surf is bad when you see guys walking away from the beach with dry hair. (especially learners on those Chinese $200 mini mals). We’ve got a flimsy NE swell that is just breaking at Maroubra, but not really anywhere else. Bondi was pretty much flat apart from the solo shorey I capture in one of today’s photos. Yawn. Pass the crumpets old boy.

Checking the surf forecast for the next 7 days is like checking your share portfolio – DIRE. There is no swell relief on the way – small conditions for the next week so best get onto those jobs you’ve been procrastinating about.

Bustin down the door

Last night I saw ‘Bustin Down the Door’ at the open air cinema with the man grommets. Gotta say it’s a great movie documenting the early origins of the ASP World Surfing Tour. The film focuses on the characters who made it all happen in Hawaii – Rabbit, MR, Thomson brothers, Eddie Rothman, Ian Cairns, PT to name a few. Well worth seeing…amazing times on the rock between 1974-1976 – more info


All busted up beach fence

All take off and no wall

Suitable equipment for the power-lacking surf

Biggest wave of the morning

2 thoughts on “flimsy

  1. The grain is intentional to make it look like good ole’ film.
    Love film. its just a photoshop filter I’ve been messing with.
    Since Digi cameras came out – everyone shoots crystal clear – yawn – boring.

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