Waves are small today, ride a bike...best way around the North ShoreBUY

Confessions

“There’s chicks out there. And they’re in bikini’s”. This is Uge’s attempt to build my confidence to take the SUP out in front of our place nestled between Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach. If you’ve seen his pics from the last few days on Oahu’s North Shore you’ll understand my trepidation. What Uge neglects to add is that these are Hawaiian sun goddesses who were delivered straight from the womb onto a mini-mal. My confession as a flat water SUPper is that despite living in Sydney for 14 years, I never learnt to surf and back in home-town Adelaide the biggest wave at metro Glenelg barely dwarfs a speed bump.

Despite Uge’s reassurances I load an 11′ SUP into a 10’6″ SUV and head for the relative safety of Haleiwa Harbour 8 miles west. I gingerly paddle out to the reef break and stand off to the side knowing the local disdain for outsiders stealing waves. I pick at a few meagre morsels like a fly buzzing a toddler’s nappy as I build my confidence. After 20 minutes of doing this a rogue wave blasts out of nowhere and – with little choice – I’m away. Halfway through another wave comes from my right as I try and read this crazy reef break. In front, something breaks the water’s surface – is it a rock? A shark fin? It’s a turtle and it joins me for the rest of the wave. My own personal turtle retracts his head away from the seat of my boardshorts.

I look up at the mountain range in the distance and feel elation – my first Hawaiian wave. So this is what the legendary North Shore is about. I reckon I’m just about ready for Pipe. Maybe.

I took some shots on my iPhone but think you’d better appreciate these pics Uge took today.

Mahalo.

Dan

(Dan is a guest blogger and one of Uge’s few non-surfing mates. He’s been buggin’ Uge to write a daily report for 6 years…well, today is Dan’s day)

John Florence, in his frontyardBUY

Shot this from inside the shack, my rightBUY

Waimea, shorey tubosBUY

Out the front, small but funBUY

Makaha - Palms and kiteBUY

Biggest wave this week in HawaiiBUY

It will be back on again, soon...Jamie O'Brien in a round oneBUY

26 thoughts on “Confessions

  1. Honestly I feel let down by yesterdays post. 2nd and 3rd reef wash throughs, 10-12 ft plus etc and while there are some nice surf and lifestyle shots nothing really coincided with the literal descriptions from the body of the email that got me so excited to scroll down! Are there any “cutting-room” floor photos you can post up? Surfing and wave shots only please, don’t need a picture of someone paddling or swimming, unless its that crazy local body surfer Mark Cunningham…

    1. Hey Roland, don’t feel let down.

      I probably should explain more. A 2nd and 3rd reef wash through is a broken wave, wall of foam washing in from out the back. Few people catch them. If they do…they’re not great and more of a shoulder than a cavernous pipeline tube.

      WHen shooting in the water it’s not ideal to document these shoulders…as they’re boring.

      All the action is on the slab at 1st Reef…where the mid size ones barrell off their nut.

      That swimmer shot yesterday is of Dan Malloy. He’s a legend. Google him.

      By no means were the shots from Thursday cutting room floor shots!

      Seeya, uge

  2. Nice story Dan. Reminds us that we all had to start somewhere – only some later than others. Keep building your confidence on the SUP and look forward to more guest posts.

  3. Thanks for all your comments guys and for indulging me – figure it’s always good to get and give a different perspective. To the couple of negatives – fair point meat and sauce (do you guys know each other?) I’ve just shot Uge carving up a few in front of our place here but Aquabumps policy forbids any selfies so I don’t think you’ll be seeing any of them soon. And if you think my prose is crap wait until you see my pictures. That is unless you want a Uge Tan cameo. Enough from me and we resume normal programming soon. Mahalo.

  4. what’s up with all the haters? (looking at you Roland, Meat and Sauce!)

    If ya can’t say anything positive then say nothing (listen to ya mummas advice for once) or find a blog to complain on.

    Awesome work guys.

    Yeah na yeah

  5. I’m sure meat and sauce don’t have anything worthy in terms of photos or commentary. Get your own website with thousands of followers before ya start knocking. Well done dan, ignore the gooses!

  6. Loved your story, Dan. It’s nice to get a new perspective! I’m not a surfer, I just check in for the pictures from my cubicle, so it was nice to read a less experienced surfers perspective. Uge’s posts are always great, but I think guest bloggers are a good idea! cheers 🙂

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *