A pacific green eyed peach


Yo haoles. I’ve learnt a new word today, spelunking. In the states they use it to describe ‘cave hunting’. You wake up here in Hawaii, walk out onto your deck and someone, somewhere is deeply grinding in the back of a barrel (or cave), grinning away and occasionally flashin’ the shaka. I saw a 10 year old kid get tubed yesterday, followed by a mother of 3 who only paddled out to catch 4 waves (on a mal!)… then…140 kg big boy pulled into a pipe at Pipe and came out like nothing happened. It’s just a daily occurrence here. Hell, even I’ve got a few.

Needless to say it’s a fruitful sojourn on The Rock. This magical island lives and breathes surfing…well it should as it all started here.

A new swell hit today and kept me up all night with its rumbling. The whole shack vibrating with each set. Pipe was on but 80 guys out. Another amazing swell is due to hit Monday…hopefully a monster (but still not big enough for the Eddie).

Have a good day ::uge

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Swimmer cam

Fresh new swell today, big crowd out.

A smaller yet perfect one


Big take off in the plume

Splitting the peak

6 thoughts on “Spelunking

  1. hi uge,

    fan of your work and stoked to see you enjoying the islands. Its a great, great place for surfing. You gotta tune into the local-speak a little more though brah……its haoles not howlies and they’re longboards, not mals. Then again, perhaps you were being ironic…..Great photos.



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